Sunday, September 29, 2013

The Making of Deerstalker H67

The finished Hat - Gilboa Deerstalker H67

The main fabric; made in England. Finely woven wool / silk blend with traditional hounds-tooth pattern.

To add some texture, the yellow lines are traced with pin-tucks, which produces a embossed effect.
Following this, the pieces are carefully cut so that the pattern matches when joining them together.

The hat is taking on shape ...

More pieces need to be cut and the lining has been selected.

 Preparing the flaps ...

 Visors have been attached at the front and back ....

 Almost there ....

 The lining is made and prepared ....

Lastly, the lining is basted into position before finalising the hat.

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Introducing a new range: The Gilboa Deerstalker - The making of H66

 The deerstalker is a fun and versatile hat, no matter what time of the year it is!

Using heavier fabric and padding, it will keep you snug and warm during the cold season. Visors at the front and back will protect you from rain and snow and if the elements are really putting up a fight, the flaps can be tied down so your ears are protected, too.

But the deerstalker is not only for winter; if made with light fabrics, it is fantastic for summer, protecting your face and neck from the sun.

For this particular deerstalker (H66), a jet black corduroy with an elegant sheen was used. The contrasting fabric - used on the underside of the visor and flaps - is a beautiful screen print depicting various animals such as deers, horses and foxes.

The individual pieces have been cut and thermal padding has been added. One by one they are joined together.

 The hat is taking on shape.

 Deciding which lining to use: liberty tana lawn or vintage kimono silk

 The decision fell on the silk, it will add some extra warmth. The lining is made in the same manner as the main hat and is ready to be inserted.

 The lining is inserted but before stitching, it has to be basted into place by hand.

Almost finished ....

Monday, September 2, 2013

The Making of Wide Cut Flat Cap H60

Wide Cut Flat-cap H60

Cap no 2 of a small, limited collection.

Cap no 1 (Narrow cut flat Cap H53)one has been sold.
Although part of a limited collection, each hat within a collection is still a one-off piece as each hat varies in design and materials used. The only common part is the main fabric.

Main fabric: a medium weight pure linen fabric with a vibrant, oriental-style dragons in orange, yellow and red on an olive green background. 

The individual pieces for the cap are cut in a manner so as to fully display the beautifully shaped dragon.

Now the contours of the dragon are traced with individual pin-tucks. A slow process as the pin-tucks have to be fastened on the reverse side so as not to come undone later.

The dragon is beginning to come 'alive'.

The pin-tucks are complete, now the task of cutting out the final shape and joining it all together.

The cap is taking on shape.

Preparing the lining: a equally vibrant, vintage kimono silk piece.

Almost there ...

Choosing the feathers for the back. 
Here the choice fell on peacock and golden pheasant feathers.

Finished Flat-cap H60